Peak of Flight #67: Painting the Corrugations on the Saturn V kit
Apogee Components' Peak of Flight newsletter, issue 67. Date: undated; published between 2000 and 2005 (from the neighbouring dated issues).
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Painting the Corrugations on the Saturns
By Tim Van Milligan
Randy Luhman writes:
Recently, I asked readers of this e-zine if they had any
tips or suggestions about painting the corrugations on the Saturn V models. I got a number of responses back, and I thought
I'd share them with you.
The final method that I recommend for the Saturn 5 kit is
a combination of several things. But since there has to be some
anticipation about the kit, I'm going to not list my own personal choice here. You'll either have to buy the kit, or get the
instructional CD-ROM, which is also being sold separately.
Here are the responses I got back from other readers:
"Lately I've gone to making decals for them. Then I apply the decal to the corrugation. The setting solution usually
pulls the decal right down into the corrugation. Of course on a
1/70th scale Saturn V that would be a rather large black decal,
but it could be done.
I've also tried using masking tape and then spraying
clearcoat over the masking tape line to prevent seepage of the
black paint. That usually works but isn't quite as reliable as
the decal method."
Dave Hering writes:
Have you ever tried using Liquid Mask. I paint a lot of
Radio Control Truck Bodies and there is a lot of fine detail
that the lacquers paints seep around if you use tape. I'm assuming that's the problem your having. There are many brands
but I prefer the Model Master as it goes on thick and so does
not run. All you do is apply it with a brush, let dry, then using
an Exacto blade you cut your lines in and peel away what you
want to paint. After painting don't let the paint totally dry but
also don't let it be too wet when you peel the masking off and
you will get a nice clean line.
My Response to Dave:
Yes. I've tried Liquid Mask. The problem I've run into is
cutting the line with the hobby knife. First, if you don't cut all
the way through, you end up peeling up the liquid mask in the
wrong spot. This has happened to me numerous times - especially when dealing with corrugations (up, down, up, down,
up, down...).
And if you apply too much pressure, you can easily damage the thin vacuum form wraps.
Another problem is just cutting a straight line. Been there,
ruined that.
But overall, I do recommend Liquid Mask in the kit. There
are areas where it does work great.
Eric Aune writes:
I have the best luck starting with thin 1/8" masking tape.
Be sure to press it firmly (drag the back of your finger nail
along the edge of the tape). Then I use whatever size I need to
finishing masking. The key is to lightly mist the edges around
the tape. Do this a couple of times, allow at least 10 minutes
between "mistings". This will dry quickly and seal the tape
line keeping the paint from creeping under the tape and leaving a crappy line.
Brett Buck writes:
"I've done this a bunch of times. The best method that
I've found is to use liquid masking film. You can get this at
any decent hobby shop. The method is pretty obvious - brush/
spray it on, then cut along the desired line, peel away excess.
Of course, get as close as you can to the final edge with tape
and paper/foil.
The second best thing to use is Bare Metal Foil. It's really
malleable and can easily conform to the corrugation surface.
The only down side is that you have to be really careful to not
use too much adhesive or you will end up leaving half of the
adhesive behind.
Tape of various types can be used if you're super-careful
to never put any tension on it, and to worry it down into the
corrugations with some sort of stylus, like a round toothpick.
For this,. I recommend either 1/16 3M Fine Line tape (green
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vinyl tape), or frisket paper stripped into narrow widths. Regular masking tape can be used, and works better than you would
think, but it *must* be sealed with a dust coat of clear lacquer
or equivalent.
Parafilm *might* work OK as well, but I've never tried
it. My guess would be the problem would be getting it to stick
to the bottom of the wells
If I had to do it tomorrow, I would certainly use liquid
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masking film."
Rich Silva writes:
"Scotch Tape gives the sharpest lines. Make sure the underlying paint is dry, otherwise you might peal it up...
Theodore Asir wrote:
"Try plumbers teflon tape. I've had great results cos its
thin and flexible. And will work on uneven shapes. Also it
doesn't stick and can be removed easily."
Here's my favorite...
Scott Miller wrote:
"I have a couple of friends who are artists. I just buy some
wine and cheese, invite them over, when they show up I casually mention that I have a project that has presented me with
problems that only a genius could solve. Each assures me that
my problem isn't that bad and usually offer to use their enormous skills to prove it. Problem solved."
About the Author:
Tim Van Milligan is the owner of Apogee Components
(http://www.apogeerockets.com) and the curator of the rocketry education web site: http://www.apogeerockets.com/education. He is also the author of the books: "Model Rocket Design and Construction," "69 Simple Science Fair Projects with
Model Rockets: Aeronautics" and publisher of the FREE ezine newsletter about model rockets. You can subscribe to the
e-zine at the Apogee Components web site, or sending an email
to: [email protected] with "SUBSCRIBE" as the subject line of the message.
Call for a free recommendation: 1-719-535-9335, or visit
our web site at: http://www.ApogeeRockets.com/quest.asp
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